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CPU Overheat Damage?
causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU was running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by constantly running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? TIA, Phil I don't think 63C is that hot, and if your system still crashes, it could be
something else going on. If you notice it crashing when it is hot then maybe check out other things like your video card getting hot. -Max Show quoteHide quote "Phil" <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote in message news:k9G4e.2683$Xi4.250@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net... >I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and > causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software > related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU > was > running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new > heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can > cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by > constantly > running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > > TIA, > Phil > > Thanks Max,
I hoped someone would point at the video card, I have a GEForce 4 MX440, I reinstalled the newest driver driver but nothing changed! Its juzt the system stalls if the CPU temp is 45+ and I'm running pretty graphics. Is there a temp probe on the card or will it need checking manually? Phil Show quoteHide quote "Max" <maxi***@portvista.com> wrote in message news:5iG4e.45104$Fz.28298@tornado.tampabay.rr.com... > I don't think 63C is that hot, and if your system still crashes, it could be > something else going on. If you notice it crashing when it is hot then maybe > check out other things like your video card getting hot. > > -Max > > > > "Phil" <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote in message > news:k9G4e.2683$Xi4.250@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net... > >I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and > > causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software > > related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU > > was > > running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new > > heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can > > cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by > > constantly > > running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > > > > TIA, > > Phil > > > > > > Is your video card really overheating? Like another poster said you have to
scientifically eliminate all the possible causes. Easiest thing is to swap out parts. I have quite a collection of old parts I just keep so I either have a backup or can troubleshoot my computer. But my best guess is that it's the video card and the motherboard chipset not liking each other. I doubt it's even heat. I was able to resolve crashing a lot of times by "turning down" some of the AGP settings in my BOIS. Look for your motherboard model number and do a search for any known issues. Flashing your BIOS could even make the problem worse with a particular piece of hardware, especially older hardware. If nothing you try seems to fix, the easiest thing is to first buy a newer model of video card, then think about replacing mobo, CPU, RAM to newer models. Maybe go with a pure Intel mobo. PSU's are cheap to replace as well. Don't buy the baddest and fastest, just find like last year's model that will be half the price now. Of course other PCI cards could cause a crash. -Max Show quoteHide quote "Phil" <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote in message news:d0H4e.2722$Xi4.589@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net... > Thanks Max, > I hoped someone would point at the video card, I have a GEForce 4 MX440, I > reinstalled the newest driver driver but nothing changed! Its juzt the > system stalls if the CPU temp is 45+ and I'm running pretty graphics. > Is there a temp probe on the card or will it need checking manually? > > Phil > > "Max" <maxi***@portvista.com> wrote in message > news:5iG4e.45104$Fz.28298@tornado.tampabay.rr.com... >> I don't think 63C is that hot, and if your system still crashes, it could > be >> something else going on. If you notice it crashing when it is hot then > maybe >> check out other things like your video card getting hot. >> >> -Max >> >> >> >> "Phil" <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote in message >> news:k9G4e.2683$Xi4.250@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net... >> >I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month >> >and >> > causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software >> > related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU >> > was >> > running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a > new >> > heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C > can >> > cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by >> > constantly >> > running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? >> > >> > TIA, >> > Phil >> > >> > >> >> > > On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:35:28 GMT, "Phil"
<phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote: >I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and Generally a CPU will not even be instable (at it's _stock_>causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software >related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU was >running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new >heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can >cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by constantly >running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > >TIA, >Phil > speed), let alone be damaged from constantly running at 63C. IF these temps you report are accurate (I suppose we could assume it without any reason to doubt?) then I'd ignore the CPU completely, and look at other temps, voltages. See what specific scenario can reproduce this and whether (windows?) has any errors reported. Overheating can occur when one uses a "fair", adequate heatisnk but poor case airflow. If that is what was happening you may have other parts now heat-stressed and reduced in stability. You failed to mention those other parts though, some things are common culprits like generic power supplies. HOWEVER, if the CPU had been overheating to the point of instability, IF that is what did really happen (and it was the only problem for the time) you may quite easily have file corruption of any, many things written to the drive during this period of time. Doing things like defragging the drive could've made so many files corrupt that it's pointless to even try to repair it rather than start out fresh. If you have the means I suggest you try making a separate, temporary clean OS install to see if the problem persists in that environment. You might even consider underclocking the CPU before, during, and/or after this test to see what effect that has.
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"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message I'll try and fill in a few blanks for you but I am already suspecting thenews:cji651dshi7f6ffbtravhppbc3lmstg5o2@4ax.com... > On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:35:28 GMT, "Phil" > <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote: > > >I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and > >causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software > >related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU was > >running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new > >heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can > >cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by constantly > >running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > > > >TIA, > >Phil > > > > Generally a CPU will not even be instable (at it's _stock_ > speed), let alone be damaged from constantly running at 63C. > IF these temps you report are accurate (I suppose we could > assume it without any reason to doubt?) then I'd ignore the > CPU completely, and look at other temps, voltages. See what > specific scenario can reproduce this and whether (windows?) > has any errors reported. > > Overheating can occur when one uses a "fair", adequate > heatisnk but poor case airflow. If that is what was > happening you may have other parts now heat-stressed and > reduced in stability. You failed to mention those other > parts though, some things are common culprits like generic > power supplies. > > HOWEVER, if the CPU had been overheating to the point of > instability, IF that is what did really happen (and it was > the only problem for the time) you may quite easily have > file corruption of any, many things written to the drive > during this period of time. Doing things like defragging > the drive could've made so many files corrupt that it's > pointless to even try to repair it rather than start out > fresh. If you have the means I suggest you try making a > separate, temporary clean OS install to see if the problem > persists in that environment. You might even consider > underclocking the CPU before, during, and/or after this test > to see what effect that has. > Cheers, video card, I guess I just needed reassuring on the CPU. The temps are reported by the BIOS and MBM5 and are the same so I assume they're correc I'm not really sure about the voltages, these are the readings I'm getting: Core 0 - 1.67V +3.3 - 4.07V +12.00 - 12.97V The others cant have probes! Windows reported a corrupt video driver after one of the freezes but let me reinstall. I do have 3 CD/DVD drives installed but only a video card there is plenty of airflow but I've just noticed the ribbon cables are touchig the card. I'll change the card tomorrow., Thanks, Phil The essential voltages are 3.3, 5, and 12 volts. The
motherboard is not sufficient to measure those voltages. A known standard such as the multimeter is necessary to measure voltages and to calibrate the voltage measurement hardware on motherboard. These voltages are on red, orange, and yellow wires from power supply. Get the diagnostic from that video card manufacturer. If the video car is having problems, the manufacturer's diagnostic should report that problem. If the video card is intermittent, then heating video card with a hair dryer on high will help the diagnostic to find that defect. Phil wrote: Show quoteHide quote > Cheers, > I'll try and fill in a few blanks for you but I am already suspecting > the video card, I guess I just needed reassuring on the CPU. > The temps are reported by the BIOS and MBM5 and are the same so I > assume they're correc > I'm not really sure about the voltages, these are the readings I'm getting: > Core 0 - 1.67V +3.3 - 4.07V +12.00 - 12.97V The others cant have > probes! Windows reported a corrupt video driver after one of the > freezes but let me reinstall. I do have 3 CD/DVD drives installed > but only a video card there is plenty of airflow but I've just > noticed the ribbon cables are touchig the card. I'll change the > card tomorrow., > Thanks, > Phil On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 03:37:04 GMT, "Phil"
<phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote: Show quoteHide quote >Cheers, You need a multimeter to take accurate temp readings but>I'll try and fill in a few blanks for you but I am already suspecting the >video card, I guess I just needed reassuring on the CPU. >The temps are reported by the BIOS and MBM5 and are the same so I assume >they're correc >I'm not really sure about the voltages, these are the readings I'm getting: >Core 0 - 1.67V +3.3 - 4.07V +12.00 - 12.97V The others cant have probes! >Windows reported a corrupt video driver after one of the freezes but let me >reinstall. I do have 3 CD/DVD drives installed but only a video card there >is plenty of airflow but I've just noticed the ribbon cables are touchig the >card. I'll change the card tomorrow., >Thanks, >Phil > your initial report of the "4.07V" and "12.97V" is typical of a system with an insufficient or failing power supply. You should not run the system unless absolutely necessary until this is resolved. You mentioned the video card- a failing video card could potentially draw more current and thus be additional load on the power supply, but usually they don't cause this kind of problem when failing. If you had a spare video card (ANY card, even a very old PCI card) you could swap in for a test, that might be revealing. Note that a different card that uses significantly less power might seem to alleviate the problem merely because the power supply is then under less load, but if the power supply didn't return to MUCH better voltages it would be the prime suspect, not the video card. On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:00:44 GMT, kony <spam@spam.com>
wrote: <snip> >You need a multimeter to take accurate temp readings Err, make that "voltage readings".Kony has provided an abridged list of suspects. Your
analysis should test for and eliminate each from that list. A spec for an Athlon 2600 says it works 100% perfectly even at 90 degrees C. Where did you even approach that temperature? Therefore no damage. Load up comprehensive hardware diagnostics. Test (diagnostics run without Windows - which is necessary to test only hardware) everything in the system. Then repeat that same test selectively heating everything as hot as hairdryer can make it. Heat locates defective hardware. Hairdryer will never overheat any semiconductors (because it does not burn human skin). Any semiconductor uncomfortable to touch is having a tropical vacation - and loving it. But intermittent semiconductors will become obviously weak under minimal heat so that a diagnostic should find the defect. Use heat to determine which 'warm' component then starts computer failure. And get those hardware diagnostics that are available for free. Heat is a diagnostic tool. Others instead try to fix a failure by adding more fans and heatsinks. Foolishness. We call it curing symptoms. That Athlon (and you are expected to confirm the spec number) should work and very happy even up to 90 degree C. In the meantime, Kony has listed other suspects. Recommend you first confirm those other suspects are innocent. Speculation is not sufficient. You must have a specific criteria to verify integrity of each hardware suspect. Phil wrote: Show quoteHide quote > I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and > causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software > related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU was > running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new > heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can > cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by constantly > running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > > TIA, > Phil OK, I'm now ruling out heat! The system comprises an ASRock mobo K78SX, AMD
Athlon XP 2600 @ 333Mhz, GEForce 4 MX440 with Generic modem and Network cards I am not using. This has all worked happily togeher for two years! The voltages confuse me what should 3.3, 5 and 12 read? 3.3, 5 and 12 I assume.also as I have a ATI radeon 9000 to put in, what watt PSU do I need? it's powering 1 floppy, 1 DVD reader, 1 CD Burner, 1 DVD burner and a Maxtor 80Gb 7200 rpm HD Show quoteHide quote "Phil" <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote in message news:k9G4e.2683$Xi4.250@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net... > I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and > causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software > related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU was > running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new > heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can > cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by constantly > running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > > TIA, > Phil > > Chart for ATX type PSU voltages. Note that 'actually
measured' voltages should be in the upper 3/4 of limits. Voltages that lie between Min V and Min on meter are suspect and probably a symptom of other problems such as excessive ripple voltage. Voltage Wire Color Min V Min on meter Max V +5 V Red 4.75 V 4.87 5.25 V -5 V White -4.75 V 4.87 -5.25 V +12 V Yellow 11.4 V 11.7 12.6 V -12 V Blue -11.4 V -11.7 -12.6 V +3.3 V Orange 3.135 V 3.22 3.465 V +5VSB Purple 4.75 4.87 5.25 !Power On Green 0.8 2.0 Power OK Gray >2.4 when power is good If that 4 volt was suppose to be 5 (red wire), then you have a serious power supply problem. System should not be working. Phil wrote: Show quoteHide quote > OK, I'm now ruling out heat! The system comprises an ASRock mobo > K78SX, AMD Athlon XP 2600 @ 333Mhz, GEForce 4 MX440 with Generic > modem and Network cards I am not using. > This has all worked happily togeher for two years! > The voltages confuse me what should 3.3, 5 and 12 read? 3.3, 5 and > 12 I assume.also as I have a ATI radeon 9000 to put in, what watt > PSU do I need? it's powering 1 floppy, 1 DVD reader, 1 CD Burner, > 1 DVD burner and a Maxtor 80Gb 7200 rpm HD Thanks, the chart is just what I was looking for.
The 4V is actually the +3.3 I take it still a problem? What Watt PSU should I get? Show quoteHide quote "w_tom" <w_t***@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:42543F38.D248E821@hotmail.com... > Chart for ATX type PSU voltages. Note that 'actually > measured' voltages should be in the upper 3/4 of limits. > Voltages that lie between Min V and Min on meter are > suspect and probably a symptom of other problems such as > excessive ripple voltage. > > Voltage Wire Color Min V Min on meter Max V > +5 V Red 4.75 V 4.87 5.25 V > -5 V White -4.75 V 4.87 -5.25 V > +12 V Yellow 11.4 V 11.7 12.6 V > -12 V Blue -11.4 V -11.7 -12.6 V > +3.3 V Orange 3.135 V 3.22 3.465 V > +5VSB Purple 4.75 4.87 5.25 > !Power On Green 0.8 2.0 > Power OK Gray >2.4 when power is good > > If that 4 volt was suppose to be 5 (red wire), then you have > a serious power supply problem. System should not be working. > > Phil wrote: > > OK, I'm now ruling out heat! The system comprises an ASRock mobo > > K78SX, AMD Athlon XP 2600 @ 333Mhz, GEForce 4 MX440 with Generic > > modem and Network cards I am not using. > > This has all worked happily togeher for two years! > > The voltages confuse me what should 3.3, 5 and 12 read? 3.3, 5 and > > 12 I assume.also as I have a ATI radeon 9000 to put in, what watt > > PSU do I need? it's powering 1 floppy, 1 DVD reader, 1 CD Burner, > > 1 DVD burner and a Maxtor 80Gb 7200 rpm HD On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 20:14:04 GMT, "Phil"
<phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote: >Thanks, the chart is just what I was looking for. Your voltage readings are so far out of spec that they're>The 4V is actually the +3.3 >I take it still a problem? >What Watt PSU should I get? > either wrong or it's unusal that the system would be running as well as it had. In other words, the voltage data you have already is suspect and needs confirmed via multimeter readings. FWIW, I doubt that your 3.3V rail is actually outputting 4V. What make & model is your power supply? What's it's combined 3V+5V wattage rating? Your prior post of the motherboard model appears to be a typo? Your board is a K7S8X? http://www.asrock.com/product/product_k7s8x.htm I am confirming it because the newer generations of socket A board sometimes use 12V for CPU and other times 5V for CPU (derived power). The K7S8X does use 5V if picture I saw is correct, which would tend to suggest you might see a voltage increase on the 5V rail if you were to underclock the system (temporarily) by merely changing the FSB to 100MHz/DDR200. The above suggestion being made to lower 5V amperage, will raise the 5V actual voltage on the board and would be reflected in the BIOS and software hardware/health monitoring voltage displays... I can only presume you don't have access to a multimeter or feel comfortable using one since that is the necessary method to get *accurate* voltage readings, but at least with some further test scenarios you might see through deduction what any particular change is doing (relatively if not accurately) through the bios and software.
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"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message I'm in a wheelchair and have to ask someone to come and open the box for menews:kkk85197q42vndrsrig4in5738dsdbuudk@4ax.com... > On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 20:14:04 GMT, "Phil" > <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote: > > >Thanks, the chart is just what I was looking for. > >The 4V is actually the +3.3 > >I take it still a problem? > >What Watt PSU should I get? > > > > Your voltage readings are so far out of spec that they're > either wrong or it's unusal that the system would be running > as well as it had. In other words, the voltage data you > have already is suspect and needs confirmed via multimeter > readings. FWIW, I doubt that your 3.3V rail is actually > outputting 4V. > > What make & model is your power supply? > What's it's combined 3V+5V wattage rating? > > Your prior post of the motherboard model appears to be a > typo? Your board is a K7S8X? > http://www.asrock.com/product/product_k7s8x.htm > I am confirming it because the newer generations of socket A > board sometimes use 12V for CPU and other times 5V for CPU > (derived power). The K7S8X does use 5V if picture I saw is > correct, which would tend to suggest you might see a voltage > increase on the 5V rail if you were to underclock the system > (temporarily) by merely changing the FSB to 100MHz/DDR200. > > The above suggestion being made to lower 5V amperage, will > raise the 5V actual voltage on the board and would be > reflected in the BIOS and software hardware/health > monitoring voltage displays... I can only presume you don't > have access to a multimeter or feel comfortable using one > since that is the necessary method to get *accurate* voltage > readings, but at least with some further test scenarios you > might see through deduction what any particular change is > doing (relatively if not accurately) through the bios and > software. Hi again, hence I try and find out as much as I can whilst awaiting my helper. I do have a multimeter but am unsure where to place the probes on a PSU cable, obviously one on the end terminal but the other? I tried underclocking the board (K7S8X) but MBM5 and the BIOS vol;tage readings (whichare consistant with one another) are unchanged. Phil On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 22:32:24 GMT, "Phil"
<phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote: >> Your voltage readings are so far out of spec that they're These aforementioned questions may be significant. It isn't>> either wrong or it's unusal that the system would be running >> as well as it had. In other words, the voltage data you >> have already is suspect and needs confirmed via multimeter >> readings. FWIW, I doubt that your 3.3V rail is actually >> outputting 4V. >> >> What make & model is your power supply? >> What's it's combined 3V+5V wattage rating? just the wattage your system may need that matters but whether the PSU manufacturer or reseller rated it accurately. Most generic "300W" PSU can't output 300W stabily, but something like a Sparkle 300W, can. For your system a decent 300W PSU should suffice, ideally one with at least 200W combined 3V+5V rating due to the motherboard's use of the 5V rail for derived CPU power circuits. Even better to go with a name-brand 350-420W PSU as it allows free expansion or the next large scale upgrade, if you would ever be inclined to replace just individual comonents like video card or motherboard/CPU/memory. >I'm in a wheelchair and have to ask someone to come and open the box for me Insert probes into the back of the ATX connector while it's>hence I try and find out as much as I can whilst awaiting my helper. I do >have a multimeter but am unsure where to place the probes on a PSU cable, >obviously one on the end terminal but the other? still plugged into the motherboard. Primarily the 3.3V (usually orange), 5V (usually red) and 12V (usually yellow) readings are important in your situation and putting postitive multimeter probe on that color and negative on any black ground on the ATX connector will give the reading. If it is difficult for you to get both multimeter probes on the wires simultaneously, you might try clamping (somehow firmly affixed to) the ground multimeter lead to the system chassis on a metal (not painted, anodized or clear-coated section of metal) portion, as whole system case should be, almost certainly is grounded. Voltages must be taken while system is turned on of course, I suggest putting it in the bios health/hardware monitor screen to directly compare the meter reading to the bios reading in realtime. > Curious, it might be a completely wrong bios report. IMO,>I tried underclocking the board (K7S8X) but MBM5 and the BIOS vol;tage >readings (whichare consistant with one another) are unchanged. >Phil > the low end motherboard more often have little quirks/bugs/flaws/etc with their bios. A bios update "might" help? Be sure system is completely stable beforehand if you were to try to update bios, else don't chance it. Some pictures may help:
http://techrepublic.com.com/5102-10586-5566528.html www.ochardware.com/articles/psuvolt/psuvolt.html I have a picture in my mind of this assistant who knows nothing about electricity and is now being told to take electrical measurements. The look on his face is "am I about to be electrocuted" and "why did I get out of bed today". Phil wrote: Show quoteHide quote > Hi again, > I'm in a wheelchair and have to ask someone to come and open the box for me > hence I try and find out as much as I can whilst awaiting my helper. I do > have a multimeter but am unsure where to place the probes on a PSU cable, > obviously one on the end terminal but the other? > > I tried underclocking the board (K7S8X) but MBM5 and the BIOS vol;tage > readings (whichare consistant with one another) are unchanged. > Phil LOL, yeah but luckily we are both technical minded so we'll be okay.
BTW the comp now powers down when it feels like it and only 1 user profile will allow you to ener info on google or suchlike! Thanks for the link Phil Show quoteHide quote "w_tom" <w_t***@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:42557E09.F5EDA024@hotmail.com... > Some pictures may help: > http://techrepublic.com.com/5102-10586-5566528.html > www.ochardware.com/articles/psuvolt/psuvolt.html > > I have a picture in my mind of this assistant who knows > nothing about electricity and is now being told to take > electrical measurements. The look on his face is "am I about > to be electrocuted" and "why did I get out of bed today". > > Phil wrote: > > Hi again, > > I'm in a wheelchair and have to ask someone to come and open the box for me > > hence I try and find out as much as I can whilst awaiting my helper. I do > > have a multimeter but am unsure where to place the probes on a PSU cable, > > obviously one on the end terminal but the other? > > > > I tried underclocking the board (K7S8X) but MBM5 and the BIOS vol;tage > > readings (whichare consistant with one another) are unchanged. > > Phil Confirming what Kony has posted. If that 4 was your 3.3
volts, then the computer suffered overvoltage. 3.3 volt components are either damaged or overstressed (may fail in the future). I posted many points. All must be considered important. One point was that the motherboard monitor is only a monitor. Not valid for voltage readings and must be calibrated with a 3.5 digit multimeter. Either do them all or doing nothing. Do not selectively choose what you will and will not do; to solve this problem. Most often, things that appear to have absolutely no purpose (from your perspective) is a 'smoking gun' solution. If you don't have a 3.5 digit multimeter, then stop doing everything else and get that meter. Meter is that critical both for your education (and your education is the #1 reason to fix things) and so that others here do not waste time helping you. It was a most important point that should have had your entire attention. Motherboard hardware cannot accurately measure voltage. The monitor first must be calibrated. No way around that fact of computer repair. You need a meter. Later one appreciates why the meter (and not shotgunning) is how intelligent computer repair begins (and completes quicker). Sidebar - notice how many will immediately jump to blame heat. That is, unfortunately, how technically naive so many computer assemblers are. Heat is too often blamed - and the solution is too often what was the joke in Tim Allen's Home Improvement. "More Fans". Somehow too many computer assemblers never appreciate they are promoting the joke by hyping heat as a problem and then recommending more than one chassis fan. The point being made here - you had no idea what was right or wrong with the computer until numbers were first obtained. Phil wrote: Show quoteHide quote > Thanks, the chart is just what I was looking for. > The 4V is actually the +3.3 > I take it still a problem? > What Watt PSU should I get? Everything was takien on board. thank you.
I have done nothing but gather what info I can so far, so I know what I'm looking for when my helper arives. The reason I asked about a suitable wattage of PSU was purely to determine whether I could fit the spare one I have here. Phil Show quoteHide quote "w_tom" <w_t***@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:42546835.A7797497@hotmail.com... > Confirming what Kony has posted. If that 4 was your 3.3 > volts, then the computer suffered overvoltage. 3.3 volt > components are either damaged or overstressed (may fail in the > future). > > I posted many points. All must be considered important. > One point was that the motherboard monitor is only a monitor. > Not valid for voltage readings and must be calibrated with a > 3.5 digit multimeter. Either do them all or doing nothing. > Do not selectively choose what you will and will not do; to > solve this problem. Most often, things that appear to have > absolutely no purpose (from your perspective) is a 'smoking > gun' solution. If you don't have a 3.5 digit multimeter, then > stop doing everything else and get that meter. Meter is that > critical both for your education (and your education is the #1 > reason to fix things) and so that others here do not waste > time helping you. > > It was a most important point that should have had your > entire attention. Motherboard hardware cannot accurately > measure voltage. The monitor first must be calibrated. No > way around that fact of computer repair. You need a meter. > Later one appreciates why the meter (and not shotgunning) is > how intelligent computer repair begins (and completes > quicker). > > Sidebar - notice how many will immediately jump to blame > heat. That is, unfortunately, how technically naive so many > computer assemblers are. Heat is too often blamed - and the > solution is too often what was the joke in Tim Allen's Home > Improvement. "More Fans". Somehow too many computer > assemblers never appreciate they are promoting the joke by > hyping heat as a problem and then recommending more than one > chassis fan. The point being made here - you had no idea what > was right or wrong with the computer until numbers were first > obtained. > > Phil wrote: > > Thanks, the chart is just what I was looking for. > > The 4V is actually the +3.3 > > I take it still a problem? > > What Watt PSU should I get? I had a similar problem with an athlon 2600xp chip.
I changed motherboard, graphics, sound, memory and psu all to no avail. I was messing in the bios one day and put the voltage up to 1.725 and bingo no more problems. It was actually a post I'd seen on an AMD website that prompted me to try it. Mikey Show quoteHide quote "Phil" <phil999@NOSPAMntlworld.com> wrote in message news:k9G4e.2683$Xi4.250@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net... >I have an Athlon XP 2600 Which has been overheating for about a month and > causing system hangs,unfortunately I thought the problems were software > related and spent a lload of time clearing rogue software while the CPU > was > running hot! After being advised to chek the temp, (63C) I purchased a new > heatsink. The hottest I have seen it now is 48C but anything over 45C can > cause freezes or stalls. My question is have I damaged the CPU by > constantly > running it HOT? and therefore would a new processor fix the problem? > > TIA, > Phil > > 
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