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Temperatures on MSI KT6 Delta (VIA KT600)
I own above-mentioned motherboard with Athlon XP 2500+ (Barton, 1833 MHz). My problem refers to temperatures. Indicator on CPU shows 51-53 Celsius degrees, and while gaming - even 60-65 degrees (cooler Pentagram Freezone 80CU). But what disturbs me more, is northbridge temperature - on average it is 45-47 degrees, and while gaming - even 53-55 degrees. I have a motherboard version only with northbridge radiator, but without a cooler. I installed coolers in the case (one sucking air in, and the other one - exhausting), but it did not change the situation much. I replaced original, wide IDE and FDD cables with thin, round ones, but it also did not change much. Radiators are very warm, which means that they receive heat from the chips. I have a question - shuld I worry about that? My system still works fine, it did not freeze even once, but I am a little anxious. I'd be grateful for any help. Krzysiek
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"KED" <Krzysztof.Dmyt***@univ.szczecin.pl> wrote in message i got the same board using a 2600 bartonnews:d2tinr$ddm$1@zeus.man.szczecin.pl... > Hello; > > I own above-mentioned motherboard with Athlon XP 2500+ (Barton, 1833 MHz). > My problem refers to temperatures. Indicator on CPU shows 51-53 Celsius > degrees, and while gaming - even 60-65 degrees (cooler Pentagram Freezone > 80CU). But what disturbs me more, is northbridge temperature - on average > it is 45-47 degrees, and while gaming - even 53-55 degrees. I have a > motherboard version only with northbridge radiator, but without a cooler. > I installed coolers in the case (one sucking air in, and the other one - > exhausting), but it did not change the situation much. I replaced > original, wide IDE and FDD cables with thin, round ones, but it also did > not change much. Radiators are very warm, which means that they receive > heat from the chips. > > I have a question - shuld I worry about that? My system still works fine, > it did not freeze even once, but I am a little anxious. > > I'd be grateful for any help. > > Krzysiek i have oc'd the 2600 to 3200 speeds in the past and had a idle temp of 50 degress C however not oc'd now i am getting about 45 C i think my system in general is poor for cooling, i am using a coolermaster vortex dream 7 cooler and its a hell of alot cooler than the stock AMD cooler. i am also using two case fans (80mm vantec stealth) not as fast/loud as normal fans but they keep the system temp down to about 35 C i dont really use this comp for gaming, infact i have given up on gaming until i get a nice new PC with nice new parts this one is pretty old, lots of parts cannabalied from older or second hand computers, for instance the hard drive, monitor, cd-rw/dvd-rom, floppy disk i wouldnt worry about the temps but it could be cooler i am in a pretty hot room, but the case i use is huge, it has 6 external 5.25 bays and 2 external 3.5 bays and about 8 internal bays, it also has room for two PSU's PSU's give off a loada heat might wanna look at that i got a thermaltake 480w dual fan psu, its cool > i wouldnt worry about the temps Thanks, I think it is due to the fact that I have an old case, it is > > but it could be cooler pretty narrow, so there is not much space for proper air distribution. I am going to replace northbridge heatsink to Zalman ZM-NB47J - just in case. A will also work with my case open and with ordinary desk fan blowing into computer guts. I tried - it really helped - temperatures dropped to max 40 (system) and 57 (CPU) during quite long gaming :-). Krzysiek On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 10:41:26 +0200, KED
<Krzysztof.Dmyt***@univ.szczecin.pl> wrote: >> i wouldnt worry about the temps Sounds like you don't need a northbridge 'sink replacement>> >> but it could be cooler > > >Thanks, I think it is due to the fact that I have an old case, it is >pretty narrow, so there is not much space for proper air distribution. I >am going to replace northbridge heatsink to Zalman ZM-NB47J - just in >case. A will also work with my case open and with ordinary desk fan >blowing into computer guts. I tried - it really helped - temperatures >dropped to max 40 (system) and 57 (CPU) during quite long gaming :-). > >Krzysiek or to take the side panel off, only to do the normal cooling measures everyone else does, to get more air in the front bottom of the case and more out the mid/top rear. Thin cases are not hard to cool, there doesn't need to be a lot of space for "proper air distribution". Airflow impedance is almost always due to the intake and exhaust regions, not the points inbetween. Unfortunately when cases get shorter/thinner/shallower, it seems they're more prone to the intake or exhaust problems too, typically. On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 10:37:14 +0200, KED
<Krzysztof.Dmyt***@univ.szczecin.pl> wrote: >Hello; Hmm, the name "Pentagram Freezone" doesn't exactly inspire> >I own above-mentioned motherboard with Athlon XP 2500+ (Barton, 1833 >MHz). My problem refers to temperatures. Indicator on CPU shows 51-53 >Celsius degrees, and while gaming - even 60-65 degrees (cooler Pentagram >Freezone 80CU). confidence, but then as you wrote below, "system still works fine". A Barton with it's larger core is usually pretty easy to keep cool, unless your case is quite warm inside then your heatsink isn't doing very well. Even so, a Barton at stock speed & voltage (not overclocked) should be fine at 60-65C. If you wanted to o'c it (since the CPU can likely go at least 300MHz faster) you should think about a different heatsink... and your present 'sink might be kinda loud too, as most generics are. If the present 'sink is quiet, and not exceptionally engineered (relative to it being a generic) it could simply be that your temps reflect this low airflow rate. If you like low noise and low cost heatsinks then this is a tradeoff that you might make, and is an acceptible one so long as CPU stays in a stable temp range AND the fan fulfills it's secondary purpose, to move enough air on the face of the motherboard to cool off the power regulation circuitry (especially capacitors). Try running Prime95's Torture Test for about 3 hours and if it passes that without errors and your larger motherboard capacitors don't feel more than moderately warm, you likely have plenty of thermal margin left, there's no game and very little else that heats up a CPU as much as Prime95 or other special-purpose programs which isolate that subsystem as much. >But what disturbs me more, is northbridge temperature - This is a curious thing, your wondering about a northbridge>on average it is 45-47 degrees, and while gaming - even 53-55 degrees. temp that is lower. Did you consult the spec sheet and thus have a reference for what an excessive temp might be? If not, I suggest you should not worry about NB temp at all unless you have a problem that seems related. >I Which is a good thing. If you were overvolting the chipset>have a motherboard version only with northbridge radiator, but without a >cooler. (not even possible most often without altering physical circuit(s) on the circuit board) or the system were in extremely warm, near inhospitable external environements, you might then need more cooling. Otherwise it's a bad thing to have a northbridge fan, it simply introduces another failure potential, noise, dust buildup for more periodic maintenance points. For reference, since you aren't even exploiting the full spec'd speed of KT600 (DDR400/200MHz) with your Barton 2500, let alone overclocking the FSB past 200MHz, you should have quite a bit of temperature tolerance. Because your FSB is lower than possible, the temp margin for stability goes up - and that would be the issue, you're not even remotely close to a damaging temperature. >I installed coolers in the case (one sucking air in, and the Since these two parts you mention are specifically designed>other one - exhausting), but it did not change the situation much. to be warm-to-hot while running, the issue would be whether the REST of your system components were hot, that the overall temp you see is merely a reflection of inadequate airflow... and that even if those parts didn't get cooler, the other might've. By "installed coolers" did you mean there were NO fans in the case at all, except the power supply exhaust? If so, the system never should've been ran like that at all, I mean, not turned on even once, period. Both AMD and Intel specify cooling arrangements, including a rear exhaust fan. It is pointless to ignore and then come back later and question temps. Excuse this note if you already had an unimpeded exhaust fan, but some cases also need more front air intake- not necessarily a fan but open area. >I I'd love to know who started that crazy urban legend that>replaced original, wide IDE and FDD cables with thin, round ones, but it >also did not change much. Radiators are very warm, which means that they >receive heat from the chips. cables make a difference. They don't... not relatively speaking... almost anything else possible to do to a chassis will make more of a difference than cables. Air is not solid and flows around obstacles in a case incredibly well. > _IF_ you think the northbridge heatsink isn't making good>I have a question - shuld I worry about that? My system still works >fine, it did not freeze even once, but I am a little anxious. contact you could take it off, clean off the original thermal interface material and apply a nice thin coat of thermal compound... preferribly a synthetic ester based compound rather than silicone based, something like Arctic Silver or better still Arctic Alumina/Ceramique as it's electrically inert, easier to cleanup, cheaper, and nearly same performance as the more expensive Silver based alternatives. Same could be done to the CPU heatsink if you think it's warranted. > This is a curious thing, your wondering about a northbridge OK, but I will replace the original heatsink by Zalman ZM-NB47J 0 it's > temp that is lower. Did you consult the spec sheet and thus > have a reference for what an excessive temp might be? > If not, I suggest you should not worry about NB temp at all > unless you have a problem that seems related. bigger - just in case :-). > For reference, since you aren't even exploiting the full I hope so, but SiSoft Sandra warned me that the system temperature > spec'd speed of KT600 (DDR400/200MHz) with your Barton 2500, > let alone overclocking the FSB past 200MHz, you should have > quite a bit of temperature tolerance. Because your FSB is > lower than possible, the temp margin for stability goes up - > and that would be the issue, you're not even remotely close > to a damaging temperature. should not exceed 50C. > By "installed coolers" did you mean there were NO fans in This is an older case - formerly it was used with VIA KX133 motherboard > the case at all, except the power supply exhaust? If so, > the system never should've been ran like that at all, I > mean, not turned on even once, period. Both AMD and Intel > specify cooling arrangements, including a rear exhaust fan. > It is pointless to ignore and then come back later and > question temps. Excuse this note if you already had an > unimpeded exhaust fan, but some cases also need more front > air intake- not necessarily a fan but open area. and Athlon 550 MHz SlotA - and for this purpose it was fine. But now, I this case is rather obsolete. I know I should buy a new one, but I do not have money to spend on this. Yes, this case had no fans (except the power supply exhaust). > I'd love to know who started that crazy urban legend that But slim cables surely won't make it worse :-).> cables make a difference. :-)) > They don't... not relatively But it was really crowded in the case. Of course you're right - air will > speaking... almost anything else possible to do to a chassis > will make more of a difference than cables. Air is not > solid and flows around obstacles in a case incredibly well. pass through, but maybe a little slower... > _IF_ you think the northbridge heatsink isn't making good The heatsinks receive heat - they're very warm.> contact you could take it off, clean off the original > thermal interface material and apply a nice thin coat of > thermal compound... preferribly a synthetic ester based > compound rather than silicone based, something like Arctic > Silver or better still Arctic Alumina/Ceramique as it's > electrically inert, easier to cleanup, cheaper, and nearly > same performance as the more expensive Silver based > alternatives. Same could be done to the CPU heatsink if you > think it's warranted. thanks Krzysiek
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