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bad capacitors?

Author
20 Mar 2005 1:01 PM
Zdenek Sojka
Hello,

can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my Duron
1300 producing faults at Prime95...

http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/

MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.

Thanks
Zdenek Sojka

Author
20 Mar 2005 1:36 PM
Jerry G.
The only way to test capacitors is to use an ESR meter, or to substitute
them.

--

Jerry G.
======


"Zdenek Sojka" <xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote in message
news:d1js6h$1q0u$1@ns.felk.cvut.cz...
Hello,

can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my Duron
1300 producing faults at Prime95...

http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/

MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.

Thanks
Zdenek Sojka
Author
20 Mar 2005 2:51 PM
Zdenek Sojka
Well, thats the reason why I am asking... testing the CPU in different PC
would be a waste of time, as that cannot be 100% proof of bad MB. Also I
dont have any chance to test if caps are good.
If someone has seen caps like these not working, then that can be a
reason...

Show quoteHide quote
"Jerry G." <jerry***@hotmail.com> pí¹e v diskusním pøíspìvku
news:3a5drhF66l2itU3@uni-berlin.de...
> The only way to test capacitors is to use an ESR meter, or to substitute
> them.
>
> --
>
> Jerry G.
> ======
>
>
> "Zdenek Sojka" <xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote in message
> news:d1js6h$1q0u$1@ns.felk.cvut.cz...
> Hello,
>
> can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my Duron
> 1300 producing faults at Prime95...
>
> http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
>
> MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
>
> Thanks
> Zdenek Sojka
>
>
>
Author
20 Mar 2005 4:00 PM
w_tom
Not possible to declare caps good from visual inspection.
In simpler terms, you cannot see electrons.  Test equipment is
required.  One method is to remove caps to test their ESR.
Another means using the oscilloscope while the motherboard is
powered and running.  It may be possible to see a defect with
a multimeter if those capacitors are heated with a hairdryer
on high or hotter - which is still 'pig heaven' normal
temperature to electronics.  The multimeter idea is not as
reliable - but reports far more than visual inspection.

  Capacitors that are failing but not yet failed are best
observed by test equipment when heat is applied.  Heat makes
the defective component temporarily more obviously defective.
There is no way to confirm component integrity with visual
inspection.  Visual inspection can only identify the worst and
most grossly obvious failure - the rarest of failures.

Zdenek Sojka wrote:
Show quoteHide quote
> Well, thats the reason why I am asking... testing the CPU in different
> PC would be a waste of time, as that cannot be 100% proof of bad MB.
> Also I dont have any chance to test if caps are good. If someone has
> seen caps like these not working, then that can be a reason...
Author
20 Mar 2005 3:24 PM
Dan
I had to replace a number of caps on the 2000 vintage     MSI K7T PRO
(MS-6330) that came with my gateway pc.  The quickest way to tell if
they are bad is to check if the tops appear bulged (should be flat), or
if there is electrolyte on the mobo surrounding them (looks a bit like
oil).  They're fairly easy to replace if you know how to solder, if not
don't even attempt it, especially with the thin, cramped traces on these
mobos.  See http://www.badcaps.com/  A good source for the caps is
digikey.com

Dan

Zdenek Sojka wrote:
Show quoteHide quote
> Hello,
>
> can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my Duron
> 1300 producing faults at Prime95...
>
> http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
>
> MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
>
> Thanks
> Zdenek Sojka
>
>
Author
20 Mar 2005 3:53 PM
Zdenek Sojka
Aha, thanks, it seems that the photo P3180010.JPG exactly shows electrolyte
has flown from capacitors.
Too bad news ;-(
On the site is also a note about KT7 that it is one of the worst MBs...
The 'kit' would cost about $30 and without chance of shipping ... anyway,
changing only 10 caps would not be so expensive - I can buy it in my city.
But if I did any mistake while soldering, the MB would go dead anyway.
Nowadays, with SocketA MB prices at ~ $40 its a better way to buy a new one
(after this fails totally, buy a new one)

Thanks
Zdenek Sojka

Show quoteHide quote
"Dan" <prograde49NOSPAM@hotmail.com> píse v diskusním príspevku
news:3a5it5F67q1aoU1@individual.net...
> I had to replace a number of caps on the 2000 vintage MSI K7T PRO
> (MS-6330) that came with my gateway pc.  The quickest way to tell if
> they are bad is to check if the tops appear bulged (should be flat), or
> if there is electrolyte on the mobo surrounding them (looks a bit like
> oil).  They're fairly easy to replace if you know how to solder, if not
> don't even attempt it, especially with the thin, cramped traces on these
> mobos.  See http://www.badcaps.com/  A good source for the caps is
> digikey.com
>
> Dan
>
> Zdenek Sojka wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my
Duron
> > 1300 producing faults at Prime95...
> >
> > http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
> >
> > MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Zdenek Sojka
> >
> >
Author
20 Mar 2005 7:40 PM
w_tom
It is not clear that the material is electrolyte.  When
manufacturing these boards, a sticky substance is applied
beneath capacitor so that vibration does not jar that
electrolytic off motherboard during wave soldering.  Is that
electrolyte or the glue?  They look similar.

Zdenek Sojka wrote:
Show quoteHide quote
> Aha, thanks, it seems that the photo P3180010.JPG exactly shows
> electrolyte has flown from capacitors.  Too bad news ;-(
> On the site is also a note about KT7 that it is one of the worst MBs...
> The 'kit' would cost about $30 and without chance of shipping ...
> anyway, changing only 10 caps would not be so expensive - I can buy
> it in my city. But if I did any mistake while soldering, the MB would
> go dead anyway. Nowadays, with SocketA MB prices at ~ $40 its a
> better way to buy a new one (after this fails totally, buy a new one)
Author
20 Mar 2005 8:27 PM
Dan
A number of the tops of the green caps in the pictures are clearly
bulging, they're bad.  In addition, these are the EXACT same caps
(brand) which were bad in my gateway.  Not unusual for them to function
well enough for a period while in this state, especially after they have
"warmed up".  Had the same thing with caps in the capstan drive servo
system of a high-end cassette deck I used to own.

Dan

w_tom wrote:
Show quoteHide quote
>   It is not clear that the material is electrolyte.  When
> manufacturing these boards, a sticky substance is applied
> beneath capacitor so that vibration does not jar that
> electrolytic off motherboard during wave soldering.  Is that
> electrolyte or the glue?  They look similar.
>
> Zdenek Sojka wrote:
>
>>Aha, thanks, it seems that the photo P3180010.JPG exactly shows
>>electrolyte has flown from capacitors.  Too bad news ;-(
>>On the site is also a note about KT7 that it is one of the worst MBs...
>>The 'kit' would cost about $30 and without chance of shipping ...
>>anyway, changing only 10 caps would not be so expensive - I can buy
>>it in my city. But if I did any mistake while soldering, the MB would
>>go dead anyway. Nowadays, with SocketA MB prices at ~ $40 its a
>>better way to buy a new one (after this fails totally, buy a new one)
Author
20 Mar 2005 3:53 PM
Vanguard
Show quote Hide quote
"Zdenek Sojka" <xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote in message
news:d1js6h$1q0u$1@ns.felk.cvut.cz...
> Hello,
>
> can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my
> Duron
> 1300 producing faults at Prime95...
>
> http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
>
> MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
>
> Thanks
> Zdenek Sojka
>
>


How old is the Abit motherboard (from when you bought it)?  Abit got hit
by a class action lawsuit to make them replace bad caps.  They were the
only one to openly announce that some of their motherboards had bad
caps.  MANY other mobo makers had these bad caps but they denied the
problem.  It was a case of espionage gone bad as only half the formula
got stolen.  They extended the 1-year warranty to 3 years.  A couple
months ago they got slapped with a class action lawsuit to force them
what they already volunteered to do (except, I believe, they now have to
pay for return shipping).  See
http://www.pcstats.com/NewsView.cfm?NewsID=40744 and
http://snipurl.com/ggroups_abit_caps.  For opening up about the problem
and graciously helping their customers, their reward was to get slapped
in the face.  But they don't do that again and instead will let follow
the lead from the other mobo makers: screw the customers that sue even
when you go beyond what all other mobo makers are doing.  Obviously if
you send them a mobo that does not have bad capacitors means they will
return the motherboard and charge you for shipping (both ways) because
you wasted their time for non-warranty service.

So what makes you believe the electryolytic capacitors are at fault?
You could use an oscilloscope to look at the voltage levels and also
check for the amount of ripple on each voltage line across the caps.  If
the caps aren't bulging (on the normally flat top) or leaking out (which
looks like a black stain) then my guess is that you read something and
incorrectly associate that problem with whatever is your problem.

Is you PC unstable when it just sits there after the POST but you do NOT
load Windows (or any other operating system)?  Is it unstable when you
use a bootable floppy to go into MS-DOS?  Is it unstable when you boot
into Recovery Console mode?  Is it unstable if you boot using a bootable
CD that loads a different operating system?  And just WHAT do you mean
by unstable?  Hell, that could be because you used an underpowered power
supply, or got a cheapie that can't manage to put out more than 75% of
its bogus rated output, or you have added lots more drives and other
internal devices and simply loaded the power supply beyond the original
configuration for the box.  Maybe you have a virus, like the one that
forces a shutdown.  Maybe you installed software that is generating a
BSOD (blue screen of death).  Maybe you installed a crappy device driver
or the wrong one (i.e., not for the operating system that you use).

Saying it is unstable is like going to the car shop and saying, "It's
broke."  Extremely vague.

--
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Author
20 Mar 2005 7:22 PM
Zdenek Sojka
Show quote Hide quote
"Vanguard" <use_ReplyTo_header> píse v diskusním príspevku
news:1t-dnX_-a9DuAaDfRVn-pw@comcast.com...
> "Zdenek Sojka" <xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote in message
> news:d1js6h$1q0u$1@ns.felk.cvut.cz...
> > Hello,
> >
> > can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my
> > Duron
> > 1300 producing faults at Prime95...
> >
> > http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
> >
> > MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Zdenek Sojka
> >
> >
>
>
> How old is the Abit motherboard (from when you bought it)?  Abit got hit
> by a class action lawsuit to make them replace bad caps.  They were the
> only one to openly announce that some of their motherboards had bad
> caps.  MANY other mobo makers had these bad caps but they denied the
> problem.  It was a case of espionage gone bad as only half the formula
> got stolen.  They extended the 1-year warranty to 3 years.  A couple
> months ago they got slapped with a class action lawsuit to force them
> what they already volunteered to do (except, I believe, they now have to
> pay for return shipping).  See
> http://www.pcstats.com/NewsView.cfm?NewsID=40744 and
> http://snipurl.com/ggroups_abit_caps.  For opening up about the problem
> and graciously helping their customers, their reward was to get slapped
> in the face.  But they don't do that again and instead will let follow
> the lead from the other mobo makers: screw the customers that sue even
> when you go beyond what all other mobo makers are doing.  Obviously if
> you send them a mobo that does not have bad capacitors means they will
> return the motherboard and charge you for shipping (both ways) because
> you wasted their time for non-warranty service.
>
> So what makes you believe the electryolytic capacitors are at fault?
> You could use an oscilloscope to look at the voltage levels and also
> check for the amount of ripple on each voltage line across the caps.  If
> the caps aren't bulging (on the normally flat top) or leaking out (which
> looks like a black stain) then my guess is that you read something and
> incorrectly associate that problem with whatever is your problem.
>
> Is you PC unstable when it just sits there after the POST but you do NOT
> load Windows (or any other operating system)?  Is it unstable when you
> use a bootable floppy to go into MS-DOS?  Is it unstable when you boot
> into Recovery Console mode?  Is it unstable if you boot using a bootable
> CD that loads a different operating system?  And just WHAT do you mean
> by unstable?  Hell, that could be because you used an underpowered power
> supply, or got a cheapie that can't manage to put out more than 75% of
> its bogus rated output, or you have added lots more drives and other
> internal devices and simply loaded the power supply beyond the original
> configuration for the box.  Maybe you have a virus, like the one that
> forces a shutdown.  Maybe you installed software that is generating a
> BSOD (blue screen of death).  Maybe you installed a crappy device driver
> or the wrong one (i.e., not for the operating system that you use).
>
> Saying it is unstable is like going to the car shop and saying, "It's
> broke."  Extremely vague.

I didn't say 'Its unstable', I exactly said 'Even on 1.85V is my Duron
1300 producing faults at Prime95...' - it is not overheating, at most 70C
(at this voltage).
The PSU is a 400W Fortron.
I think, there should be seen at http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/P3180010.JPG
how bad it is...
Well , the MB is some 7 zears old, but I have some 486 working for over 15
years...

Zdenek Sojka
Author
20 Mar 2005 11:19 PM
Vanguard
Show quote Hide quote
"Zdenek Sojka" <xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote in message
news:d1kigi$24rr$1@ns.felk.cvut.cz...
>
> "Vanguard" <use_ReplyTo_header> píse v diskusním príspevku
> news:1t-dnX_-a9DuAaDfRVn-pw@comcast.com...
>> "Zdenek Sojka" <xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote in message
>> news:d1js6h$1q0u$1@ns.felk.cvut.cz...
>> > Hello,
>> >
>> > can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my
>> > Duron
>> > 1300 producing faults at Prime95...
>> >
>> > http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
>> >
>> > MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> > Zdenek Sojka
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> How old is the Abit motherboard (from when you bought it)?  Abit got
>> hit
>> by a class action lawsuit to make them replace bad caps.  They were
>> the
>> only one to openly announce that some of their motherboards had bad
>> caps.  MANY other mobo makers had these bad caps but they denied the
>> problem.  It was a case of espionage gone bad as only half the
>> formula
>> got stolen.  They extended the 1-year warranty to 3 years.  A couple
>> months ago they got slapped with a class action lawsuit to force them
>> what they already volunteered to do (except, I believe, they now have
>> to
>> pay for return shipping).  See
>> http://www.pcstats.com/NewsView.cfm?NewsID=40744 and
>> http://snipurl.com/ggroups_abit_caps.  For opening up about the
>> problem
>> and graciously helping their customers, their reward was to get
>> slapped
>> in the face.  But they don't do that again and instead will let
>> follow
>> the lead from the other mobo makers: screw the customers that sue
>> even
>> when you go beyond what all other mobo makers are doing.  Obviously
>> if
>> you send them a mobo that does not have bad capacitors means they
>> will
>> return the motherboard and charge you for shipping (both ways)
>> because
>> you wasted their time for non-warranty service.
>>
>> So what makes you believe the electryolytic capacitors are at fault?
>> You could use an oscilloscope to look at the voltage levels and also
>> check for the amount of ripple on each voltage line across the caps.
>> If
>> the caps aren't bulging (on the normally flat top) or leaking out
>> (which
>> looks like a black stain) then my guess is that you read something
>> and
>> incorrectly associate that problem with whatever is your problem.
>>
>> Is you PC unstable when it just sits there after the POST but you do
>> NOT
>> load Windows (or any other operating system)?  Is it unstable when
>> you
>> use a bootable floppy to go into MS-DOS?  Is it unstable when you
>> boot
>> into Recovery Console mode?  Is it unstable if you boot using a
>> bootable
>> CD that loads a different operating system?  And just WHAT do you
>> mean
>> by unstable?  Hell, that could be because you used an underpowered
>> power
>> supply, or got a cheapie that can't manage to put out more than 75%
>> of
>> its bogus rated output, or you have added lots more drives and other
>> internal devices and simply loaded the power supply beyond the
>> original
>> configuration for the box.  Maybe you have a virus, like the one that
>> forces a shutdown.  Maybe you installed software that is generating a
>> BSOD (blue screen of death).  Maybe you installed a crappy device
>> driver
>> or the wrong one (i.e., not for the operating system that you use).
>>
>> Saying it is unstable is like going to the car shop and saying, "It's
>> broke."  Extremely vague.
>
> I didn't say 'Its unstable', I exactly said 'Even on 1.85V is my Duron
> 1300 producing faults at Prime95...' - it is not overheating, at most
> 70C
> (at this voltage).
> The PSU is a 400W Fortron.
> I think, there should be seen at
> http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/P3180010.JPG
> how bad it is...
> Well , the MB is some 7 zears old, but I have some 486 working for
> over 15
> years...
>
> Zdenek Sojka
>
>


I have keyboards that can withstand severe pounding, but they don't
build them that way anymore.  Used to be you couldn't flex a keyboard
but now they are flimsy.  Cost cutting, bottom dollar, and consumers
going for the cheapest despite lack of quality has driven computer parts
into the bargain bin for price and quality.  I like Fortron PSUs since
they usually under-rate the power output available; however, for the
variable-speed fans, they need a better provider.

Did you run it under a clean install of whatever operating system you
use that Prime95 supports, or are you running it on your production host
that has a myriad of programs, services, and other stuff running
concurrently?  Could be you are running something or a suite of
processes that causes interference or conflicts.

Are you overclocking any components, like upping the clock for the
memory?  Did you tweak any of the BIOS settings to the memory, or did
you configure it to use SPD (serial presence detect) to run at the
settings that the memory reports for it?

From the photos in your URL link, it is hard to tell if some of the
electrolytics are bulging on the top or if it just the angle of the
light and the reflection off their metal tops.  From the photos, it
looks like some are bulging.  Doesn't look like there is any leakage,
though.  They do look like the green ones that I've heard about that
went bad.

It's too late to enter the class action lawsuit noted in the link in my
other post (and at http://www.abitsettlement.com/).  Now that they got
slapped with the lawsuit for something they had previously volunteered
to do, I don't know what their attitude is now.  If the mobo is within
the warranty, they have to repair.  If it has been under 3 years since
you bought it, they might repair.  If it is older than 3 years, the cost
to ship it to them could be high enough that it's time to look for a new
motherboard instead.  According to
http://reviews.cnet.com/5208-7591-0.html?forumID=26&threadID=59483&messageID=706271,
maybe your mobo is covered.  You could see what happens by trying Abit's
eRMA web site (https://rma.abit-usa.com/).

In the alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.abit newsgroup, there's a guy named
Homie who posted that he repairs these mobos with bad caps (if you're
not feely lucky or don't have the expertise to do the unsoldering and
soldering yourself although, at this point, you don't have much to
lose).  Don't remember what he charges (recall it was around $25), and
you'll probably have to pay the shipping both ways.

--
____________________________________________________________
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____________________________________________________________
Author
21 Mar 2005 12:11 AM
kony
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 17:19:12 -0600, "Vanguard"
<use_ReplyTo_header> wrote:


>I have keyboards that can withstand severe pounding, but they don't
>build them that way anymore.  Used to be you couldn't flex a keyboard
>but now they are flimsy.  Cost cutting, bottom dollar, and consumers
>going for the cheapest despite lack of quality has driven computer parts
>into the bargain bin for price and quality.  I like Fortron PSUs since
>they usually under-rate the power output available; however, for the
>variable-speed fans, they need a better provider.

On which models?
Many of them use NMB, maybe a few Nidecs... premium fans
bested by no others.  I do note that sometimes the fan speed
seems optimized more towards good cooling rather than lowest
noise, but on the other hand I have a Fortron 460W that is
among the quiestest PSU I've ever had, per "X" load on it,
as shipped/stock configuration.

On the other hand, some models have Yate Loon fans- low end
crap with so-so sleeve bearing.  It's not too bad on the
large 12cm fans because of their lower RPM and use as intake
rather than (pre-heated) exhaust, but in past years their
80mm Yate Loon exhaust fans (common on 250-300W models that
came "free"-with-case from some case manufacturers) seemed
the first failure point, unless relubed then they did fine.

Show quoteHide quote
>
>Did you run it under a clean install of whatever operating system you
>use that Prime95 supports, or are you running it on your production host
>that has a myriad of programs, services, and other stuff running
>concurrently?  Could be you are running something or a suite of
>processes that causes interference or conflicts.
>
>Are you overclocking any components, like upping the clock for the
>memory?  Did you tweak any of the BIOS settings to the memory, or did
>you configure it to use SPD (serial presence detect) to run at the
>settings that the memory reports for it?
>
>From the photos in your URL link, it is hard to tell if some of the
>electrolytics are bulging on the top or if it just the angle of the
>light and the reflection off their metal tops.  From the photos, it
>looks like some are bulging.  Doesn't look like there is any leakage,
>though.  They do look like the green ones that I've heard about that
>went bad.
>
>It's too late to enter the class action lawsuit noted in the link in my
>other post (and at http://www.abitsettlement.com/). 

Are you sure?  The link mentions

"Last day to submit a Claim Form
Postmarked by February 15, 2006  "



>In the alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.abit newsgroup, there's a guy named
>Homie who posted that he repairs these mobos with bad caps (if you're
>not feely lucky or don't have the expertise to do the unsoldering and
>soldering yourself although, at this point, you don't have much to
>lose).  Don't remember what he charges (recall it was around $25), and
>you'll probably have to pay the shipping both ways.

Pretty easy to replace caps on a board if one has fairly
high wattage (but fine tipped) iron, because the power and
ground planes 'sink a lot of heat when desoldering.  Well,
pretty easy for someone practiced at semi-fine soldering.

Digikey has the following, would be a good "mindless" choice
for board replacement in most situations but OP being in
CZ...

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?PName?Name=P12367-ND&Site=US
Author
21 Mar 2005 8:03 AM
Vanguard
"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:5h3s311lie750esrrjefu90ig4ubcqh2a9@4ax.com...

>>I like Fortron PSUs since
>>they usually under-rate the power output available; however, for the
>>variable-speed fans, they need a better provider.
>
> On which models?

On the Aurora model which uses a fan that I only remember had a brand
name starting with "Y" (maybe Y S Tech although I thought it was a
one-word brand name).  In some of those models, I've had to replace the
"Y" fan in about 3 months because it started to make noise.  Not super
loud like most fans when their bearings get worn or get out of balance
from wear around the pin shaft.  Oiling it didn't help.  It would be
loudest when cold and get quieter after it warmed up many minutes later.
It was loud enough in a very quiet office to be irritating even when
setting the potentiometer for a fan speed at its slowest setting (the
PSU will still up the speed based on temperature beyond what user sets
using the pot).  I believe they discontinued the FSP350-60PN Aurora
model because of problems with the potentiometer and the PCB to which it
connects.

You can see a pic of its guts at
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article106-page2.html.  It shows a clear
fan but mine was opaque black (and no blue LED, either, as I couldn't
give a gnat's fart about a blue hue inside my opaque case).  I haven't
had a problem with the units with the clear fans (2 of them), only with
the ones that had the black fans (3 of them).  It was easy enough to
open the PSU to replace the 120mm fan (but I recall having to watch its
thickness to make sure it was skinny enough to fit).

> Many of them use NMB, maybe a few Nidecs... premium fans
> bested by no others.  I do note that sometimes the fan speed
> seems optimized more towards good cooling rather than lowest
> noise, but on the other hand I have a Fortron 460W that is
> among the quiestest PSU I've ever had, per "X" load on it,
> as shipped/stock configuration.
>
> On the other hand, some models have Yate Loon fans- low end
> crap with so-so sleeve bearing.

Yeah, that was the brand.  Yates Loon.  I don't know about the quality
of that brand because I never buy that brand.  It seemed a bit chintzy
in quality to be used in a Fortron PSU.

After replacing the Yates Loon fans in the Fortrons, the hosts got real
quiet.  Now the big noisemaker is the fan in the 2kVA 120-pound monster
UPS on the floor.  I tried replacing it but being an 8cm 24-volt fan
limits my choices.  I got a replacement thinking it would be quieter but
it was an industrial-grade fan and made just as much noise.  Oh well,
it's a new fan so I don't have to worry about it for awhile (and I
replaced the batteries about a year ago so the UPS should work okay for
a few years more without repair).  Unfortunately, it was only a 2-lead
fan (the old one was a 3-lead so it had RPM sense) and I had to disable
the fan speed alarm in the UPS.

Know of any good sources for 24 volt (that's 24-volt, not 12 or 5 volt)
8cm fans that are also quiet?  Panasonic has their 24-volt Panaflow
FBA08A24L1A with hydrowave bearing rated at 21 dBA but I could find
anyone selling it (that I trust for online purchases).

UPDATE:  While writing this, I just found the Panaflow FBA08A24L1A at
digikey.com for $8.25.  Don't know why I didn't look there before.  Sure
beats the $25 that I paid for the industrial quality but noisy
replacement that I used before.  I just can't tell, however, if this is
a 3-wire fan from its specs (at
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/appliance/pdf/fba08a.pdf) which say
the third wire is optional.

--
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Author
22 Mar 2005 12:27 AM
kony
On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 02:03:16 -0600, "Vanguard"
<use_ReplyTo_header> wrote:

Show quoteHide quote
>"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
>news:5h3s311lie750esrrjefu90ig4ubcqh2a9@4ax.com...
>
>>>I like Fortron PSUs since
>>>they usually under-rate the power output available; however, for the
>>>variable-speed fans, they need a better provider.
>>
>> On which models?
>
>On the Aurora model which uses a fan that I only remember had a brand
>name starting with "Y" (maybe Y S Tech although I thought it was a
>one-word brand name).  In some of those models, I've had to replace the
>"Y" fan in about 3 months because it started to make noise.  Not super
>loud like most fans when their bearings get worn or get out of balance
>from wear around the pin shaft.  Oiling it didn't help.  It would be
>loudest when cold and get quieter after it warmed up many minutes later.
>It was loud enough in a very quiet office to be irritating even when
>setting the potentiometer for a fan speed at its slowest setting (the
>PSU will still up the speed based on temperature beyond what user sets
>using the pot).  I believe they discontinued the FSP350-60PN Aurora
>model because of problems with the potentiometer and the PCB to which it
>connects.
>
>You can see a pic of its guts at
>http://www.silentpcreview.com/article106-page2.html.  It shows a clear
>fan but mine was opaque black (and no blue LED, either, as I couldn't
>give a gnat's fart about a blue hue inside my opaque case).  I haven't
>had a problem with the units with the clear fans (2 of them), only with
>the ones that had the black fans (3 of them).  It was easy enough to
>open the PSU to replace the 120mm fan (but I recall having to watch its
>thickness to make sure it was skinny enough to fit).

The one pictured is a Yate-Loon.  I've had other Sparkle (or
were they Fortron (same diff.)) that had the 12cm Yate Loon
fans that were std. opaque black instead of clear too.  Long
ago I wipped up a batch of fan lube that seems to do well,
it's synthetic motol oil mixed with synthetic grease... the
synthetic part isn't necessarily as imporant as the
viscosity, being barely thin enough to flow, a drop point
above room temperature.  This keeps more lube in the bearing
especially on non-vertically mounted sleeve bearing fans,
and being thicker it takes up more of the play in the
bearing.  Even very old and fairly worn fans may respond
well to a thicker lube, though of course beyond a certain
point it would be better to just replace the fan.


Show quoteHide quote
>
>> Many of them use NMB, maybe a few Nidecs... premium fans
>> bested by no others.  I do note that sometimes the fan speed
>> seems optimized more towards good cooling rather than lowest
>> noise, but on the other hand I have a Fortron 460W that is
>> among the quiestest PSU I've ever had, per "X" load on it,
>> as shipped/stock configuration.
>>
>> On the other hand, some models have Yate Loon fans- low end
>> crap with so-so sleeve bearing.
>
>Yeah, that was the brand.  Yates Loon.  I don't know about the quality
>of that brand because I never buy that brand.  It seemed a bit chintzy
>in quality to be used in a Fortron PSU.

There are a ton of poor quality fans out there in other
brands too though, it would seem that to a certain extent
Fortron does what many of the major manufacturers do, build
cheaper units for certain market segments.  Overall though
they're still pretty good for the price, I just buy the fans
I like when I see good deals on 'em then if/when I need a
fan for something... already have it.


>
>After replacing the Yates Loon fans in the Fortrons, the hosts got real
>quiet.  Now the big noisemaker is the fan in the 2kVA 120-pound monster
>UPS on the floor.  I tried replacing it but being an 8cm 24-volt fan
>limits my choices.  I got a replacement thinking it would be quieter but
>it was an industrial-grade fan and made just as much noise.  Oh well,
>it's a new fan so I don't have to worry about it for awhile (and I
>replaced the batteries about a year ago so the UPS should work okay for
>a few years more without repair).  Unfortunately, it was only a 2-lead
>fan (the old one was a 3-lead so it had RPM sense) and I had to disable
>the fan speed alarm in the UPS.

Some industrial fans have a rotor lock alarm rather than RPM
feature on the 3rd lead.  Panaflo makes some 24V fans that
might've worked though using an inline resistor or alternate
fan speed control method will work for 24V as well as 12V
fans, keeping the higher voltage in mind of course.  You
just have to look outside of *computer* equipment suppliers
to get a good choice in 24V fans, which may mean it's higher
priced, or quite cheap if any are at the typical surplus
electronics stores like bgmicro, mpja, allelectronics,
electronic goldmine, Excess Solutions, et al.


>
>Know of any good sources for 24 volt (that's 24-volt, not 12 or 5 volt)
>8cm fans that are also quiet?  Panasonic has their 24-volt Panaflow
>FBA08A24L1A with hydrowave bearing rated at 21 dBA but I could find
>anyone selling it (that I trust for online purchases).
>
>UPDATE:  While writing this, I just found the Panaflow FBA08A24L1A at
>digikey.com for $8.25. 

LOL, we must be thinking on the same wavelength today...
I'd mentioned the Panaflo before reading the whole post and
then went to Digikey before seeing what you wrote.

Well for the benefit of others I'll link it while on my
clipboard,

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?PName?Name=P9739-ND

>Don't know why I didn't look there before.  Sure
>beats the $25 that I paid for the industrial quality but noisy
>replacement that I used before.  I just can't tell, however, if this is
>a 3-wire fan from its specs (at
>http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/appliance/pdf/fba08a.pdf) which say
>the third wire is optional.

I don't think it does have the 3rd lead but i could be
wrong.  Even so, if it  has RPM lead but you need rotor lock
then there's another variable too.  Rotor lock does seem to
be more common feature on 24V fans and equipment that only
needs to know if fan stops, not it's actual RPM... but for
your purpose I wouldn't hazzard a guess.
Author
22 Mar 2005 9:40 PM
Vanguard
Show quote Hide quote
"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:kgou315atrurl1qiqopbm710cbdabq6c32@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 02:03:16 -0600, "Vanguard"

>>UPDATE:  While writing this, I just found the Panaflow FBA08A24L1A at
>>digikey.com for $8.25.

> LOL, we must be thinking on the same wavelength today...
> I'd mentioned the Panaflo before reading the whole post and
> then went to Digikey before seeing what you wrote.
>
> Well for the benefit of others I'll link it while on my
> clipboard,
>
> http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?PName?Name=P9739-ND

>>Don't know why I didn't look there before.  Sure
>>beats the $25 that I paid for the industrial quality but noisy
>>replacement that I used before.  I just can't tell, however, if this
>>is
>>a 3-wire fan from its specs (at
>>http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/appliance/pdf/fba08a.pdf) which
>>say
>>the third wire is optional.

> I don't think it does have the 3rd lead but i could be
> wrong.  Even so, if it  has RPM lead but you need rotor lock
> then there's another variable too.  Rotor lock does seem to
> be more common feature on 24V fans and equipment that only
> needs to know if fan stops, not it's actual RPM... but for
> your purpose I wouldn't hazzard a guess.

I would suspect that the UPS wants a 24-volt 80cm fan that uses rotor
lock instead of RPM.  This UPS doesn't show the fan's RPM when using its
front LED panel and there is no RPM metering shown in the NT service and
control panel applet for the UPS.  The spec for the Panasonic Panaflow
says, "Optional third lead wire signal (Locked rotor alarm sensor,
2PPR)" so it looks like it should work - if the fan actually includes
the "optional" feature.  The photo in the PDF doc shows a 3-pin header
yet the dimensions diagram shows a 2-wire pair pre-attached to the
housing.  So I'll probably have to call them to ensure they give me the
3-wire version (so it has the rotor lock sense).

--
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Author
23 Mar 2005 2:45 AM
kony
On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 15:40:30 -0600, "Vanguard"
<use_ReplyTo_header> wrote:


Show quoteHide quote
>> I don't think it does have the 3rd lead but i could be
>> wrong.  Even so, if it  has RPM lead but you need rotor lock
>> then there's another variable too.  Rotor lock does seem to
>> be more common feature on 24V fans and equipment that only
>> needs to know if fan stops, not it's actual RPM... but for
>> your purpose I wouldn't hazzard a guess.
>
>I would suspect that the UPS wants a 24-volt 80cm fan that uses rotor
>lock instead of RPM.  This UPS doesn't show the fan's RPM when using its
>front LED panel and there is no RPM metering shown in the NT service and
>control panel applet for the UPS.  The spec for the Panasonic Panaflow
>says, "Optional third lead wire signal (Locked rotor alarm sensor,
>2PPR)" so it looks like it should work - if the fan actually includes
>the "optional" feature.  The photo in the PDF doc shows a 3-pin header
>yet the dimensions diagram shows a 2-wire pair pre-attached to the
>housing.  So I'll probably have to call them to ensure they give me the
>3-wire version (so it has the rotor lock sense).

In these cases, "optional" may mean they'll (Panasonic) make
it like that if you want to order enough of them.  There may
be a code on the model number denoting this feature, I used
to know the Panasonic codes but after a time it's amazing
how much one forgets.   I wouldn't rely on the picture or
the diagram though, rather a specific mention of that
feature being included on the specific fan... otherwise it's
usually not included.
Author
21 Mar 2005 1:53 AM
larry moe 'n curly
Zdenek Sojka wrote:
> "Vanguard" <use_ReplyTo_header> píse v diskusním príspevku
> news:1t-dnX_-a9DuAaDfRVn-pw@comcast.com...

> I think, there should be seen at
> http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/P3180010.JPG
> how bad it is...

I would replace all the caps in that area, even those that aren't
bulging but are in the same area or have the same coloring and
manufacturer markings, because they're probably about to fail
completely too.  For example, I had an Antec PSU with one bulging
capacitor.  The others not only looked normal but also tested normal
for ESR.  But a week after I replaced the bulging one, the non-bulger
next to it started to bulge, and its ESR increased by a factor of ten.
Author
20 Mar 2005 8:53 PM
kony
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 14:01:44 +0100, "Zdenek Sojka"
<xXzsoXjkaXx.***@seXznamX.cz> wrote:

>Hello,
>
>can be these caps reason for my PC instability? Even on 1.85V is my Duron
>1300 producing faults at Prime95...
>
>http://www.volny.cz/smatt/caps/
>
>MB is Abit KT7, VIA KT133.
>
>Thanks
>Zdenek Sojka
>

Yes, the motherboard clearly has at least a half-dozen
failing capacitors.  Those turquoise G-Luxons are among
those most commonly failing, you're fortunate they've lasted
this long.